Chodra Hovli (Chadra Courtyard): A Khan's Oasis of Inspiration

Chodra Hovli - Khiva

Journey to Khwarezm, where sun-baked earth meets azure sky, and discover Chodra Hovli, a jewel of a house. Khan Muhammad Rahim II, a ruler with a poet's heart, built this haven in 1871, a summer escape, a muse's retreat. Imagine the Khan, pen in hand, finding inspiration in these very walls!

Just a short drive – 11 kilometers – from the ancient city of Khiva, past the fields of Rosmat Madaminov's collective farm, a grand wall rises, hinting at the treasure within. Step through the entrance, and a few minutes' walk unveils the majestic Chodra Hovli.

Its four-story tower, a marvel of adobe and intricately carved wood, pierces the skyline. A whisper of Tehran's Shams al-Emarat echoes in its form, yet its spirit remains fiercely Khwarezmian. This was no mere dwelling, but a country idyll, boasting two grand halls on the first and second floors, alongside a stable and granaries, whispering tales of a vibrant past.

Ascend through hidden trapdoors and winding stairs, secrets tucked into the corners of the roofs, and explore the private chambers. The second and third floors each cradle a bedroom, an iwan (terrace) open to the whispering winds, and a graceful bala khana (balcony). The third floor's iwan, a double embrace, welcomes breezes from both sides. Low, rectangular windows, like watchful eyes, dot the walls, framing glimpses of the surrounding beauty.

Bala khana (balcony) - Chodra Hovli - Khiva

Reach the summit, the fourth floor, and discover two terraces, separated by a delicate partition, facing the sun's warm embrace in the south. Here, in this unique sanctuary, time slows. Imagine yourself on the iwan, the cool breeze of Khiva's oases caressing your skin, the sweet scent of apricots from the orchard mingling with the air. Chodra Hovli: a place where history breathes, and beauty endures.

Photos: © S&P Travel. All rights reserved.